Beers of Peru

Beer drinking in Peru is enjoying something of a revival. A few years ago the government increased the tax on beer to try and reduce consumption and guess what? Everyone started drinking spirits, especially rum, and that caused no end of health problems, leading to the tax rate being reduced again.

The main breweries and brands in Peru are all now owned by the same owner, Backus, and prices had been high and creeping up since they took over their only rival, Cervesur, a few years ago (Cervesur produced Cusqueña and Arequipeña). However, a few years ago a Brazilian brand, Brahmin, entered the market at a much lower price than the local brews. This competition caused something of a price war, and now a ‘mediana’ 620ml size bottle will cost around S/.4 to S/.5 in a shop or (non-tourist) restaurant, rather than the S/.8 or S/.9 you would have paid only a few years ago.

The price war and reduced tax has helped the beer market to grow about 14% in 2005, but consumption per head is still below the South American average.

The main brands are Cristal, Pilsen Callao and Cusqueña. These are all light lager type beers. In Peru it is thought that Cristal is the most popular choice on the coast, Cusqueña in the Andes, and Pilsen in the Selva, or jungle. Whether this is true or not, I find all the beers easy to drink, in order I prefer Cusqueña and then Pilsen, and Cristal is my least favourite – I find it tastes slightly watery but maybe that is why it is popular on the coast where the weather is hotter and more sunny. Arequipa has its own brand, Arequipeña, this was produced by the same company as Cusqueña, and is very similar in look and taste.

Finally about the beers – my favourite overall is Cusqueña Malta beer – this is a dark malt beer, black with a cream coloured head. It tastes like a really sweet stout, but is quite strong so drink it with care. Locals believe it is good for the health, so if you are feeling under the weather what more excuse do you need?

If you drink beer with a Peruvian it is worth knowing the traditional way of doing so - in a group there is generally only one glass, and everyone takes it in turn to pour a glassful, pass the bottle to the next person to your left, say "salud" to everyone in the group in turn and then knock it back. Tip the dregs and froth into another glass or just onto the floor, and pass the glass to the next person. It seems weird when you first do it, but it does make it more of a shared activity, and that seems to suit the generous Peruvian character. After getting used to it, it seems more weird to go out in a group and not share your bottle!

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